Untitled Page

Q:Kathy asks “how do I know how big to cut the triangles for an on-point quilt?

A:Your best bet is to figure something like this--and this is the way I do it, too.Draw out
the whole thing on graph paper.You can find graph paper at any school supply store.
Since it’s rather difficult to actually draw an on-point block to a certain size, I’ve
developed a neat trick (I’m not into pain!!!)Draw your block “straight” on the graph
paper, cut out the blocks and glue them“on-point” on a new sheet of graph paper.It’s
quite easy to go from there!Have fun.Q: A quilter from Vermont asks, “I love your Block Party quilt.Any suggestions on doing it as a memory quilt?

A:I’ve made several memory quilts using the Block Partydesign and they are such fun.
Here are some ideas.
1.Use scraps from familiar/favorite garments.
2.Have people sign some of the blocks. HINT: Make the pieces larger than needed,
Back it with freezer paper, then make a “mask” with a cut-out for them to write in.Use a permanent marker.
3.Phototransfers are wonderful!I used 27 one time in a Block Party quilt for my 14old niece.She loved it!!
4.If you need a bigger block just measure two finished blocks and add ¼ inch allaround.
5.If you need a block for a smaller photo just add fabric, then cut to a usable size.

Q-Nancy asks if flannel will work with the Foldy Stuff?
A-Oh my, yes --- I used flannel for a large lap throw and it was great.But not in the Pineapple, miniatures or Round Cabin --- too much fabric buildup! Also be sure to use a lighter weight (napped on one side only) flannel. I made a baby blanket using flannel that was thicker and it was so stiff I use it as a rug under my computer!!!
And that brings up another point.The Foldy Stuff process allows the use of a wide range of fabrics because you are not sewing a ¼ inch seam and don’t have to be fussy.I’ve even used rayon.I love silk and I’ll bet organdy and batiste would be lovely..Just stick to light and medium weight fabrics.

Q - Kris asks:
What kind of muslin do you find to be the thinnest or the best for foundation?
A - Donna answers:
I do a LOT of Foldy Stuff and get my muslin by the bolt.I buy either Springs or Rockland and, since no one will ever see it, I use one of their less expensive types.I do wash it first even though it claims less than two percent shrinkage.By the way, if you find one of those fabulous sales and they have a fabric light enough to see the transfer lines, buy a pile of it --- works just fine!

Q - Arline asks: I understand that on a trip you take along a clipboard and all the cut and stacked pieces for Foldy Stuff blocks.Do you sew the strips onto the grid by hand or just pin them for machine stitching later?
A - The Foldy Stuff is actually great as handwork, especially when you’re riding in a car and can’t be fussy about your stitching.I sew the pieces to the muslin base with a running stitch and regular sewing thread. You only need one spool of thread as it doesn’t have to match anything and the stitches don’t have to be neat because it isn’t a seam. Keeps it real simple!The clipboard is to

Q - Edna asks:
Needing suggestions for transferring photos on bubble jet printer.Also care of such.
A - Donna answers:
I’d like some suggestions, too!It’s been several years since I transferred any photos and now there are so many different products to make it easier.Most, I believe, have the fabric itself and I’d love to know which products have the best fabric and give the clearest colors.For inkjet printers, too.I’d like to get back to doing photo transfers as they are great with our Foldy Stuff and Block Party patterns!

Q - Kris asks:
What kind of muslin do you find to be the thinnest or the best for foundation?
A - Donna answers:
I do a LOT of Foldy Stuff and get my muslin by the bolt.I buy either Springs or Rockland and, since no one will ever see it, I use one of their less expensive types.I do wash it first even though it claims less than two percent shrinkage.By the way, if you find one of those fabulous sales and they have a fabric light enough to see the transfer lines, buy a pile of it --- works just fine!

Q - Arline asks: I understand that on a trip you take along a clipboard and all the cut and stacked pieces for Foldy Stuff blocks.Do you sew the strips onto the grid by hand or just pin them for machine stitching later?
A - The Foldy Stuff is actually great as handwork, especially when you’re riding in a car and can’t be fussy about your stitching.I sew the pieces to the muslin base with a running stitch and regular sewing thread. You only need one spool of thread as it doesn’t have to match anything and the stitches don’t have to be neat because it isn’t a seam. Keeps it real simple!The clipboard is to give you something flat to work on.

Q - Kathy writes: I just finished the top of a Foldy Stuff Pineapple quilt and would like to know the best way to quilt it.
A - I just machine quilt in the ditch where I’ve sewn the blocks together.It’s all you need with most battings these days.Besides, the Pineapple quilt is so heavy you won’t be using batting anyway!

Q - Barbara writes:I have finished the top to a Foldy Stuff project.I would appreciate any help you could give on finishing.My friend says she serges the edges of the blocks.Also, will copies of old newsletters be available?
A - I don’t do anything to the edges of my blocks (and I do have a serger)There is a 1/2” seam allowance included in the block and they’ll be backed so they’ll never fray.I just figure, why bother!Getting copies of old newsletters will be no problem.We just started in Januaryand our webmaster said he’d archive them so they’ll all be available at any time!

Q - Sheri writes: I took your Mega Peaks class at Road to California and am about finished with what I started in class.Since I am fairly new to quilting, do you have any suggestions as to the best way to finish the project.I’m machine quilting it myself and don’t want to overpower the design with quilting.
A - So glad you liked the Peaks pattern --- that was a fun class!Hope I get to do it again next year.As for quilting, I’m a fairly lazy quilter as I’m always anxious to get to the next project.So most of my quilts (including the sample you saw) are machine quilted in the ditch where I sewed the six inch blocks together.It’s enough!

Q-Gloria asks: I would like to make larger blocks than given for the megapatterrn Peaks designs.How would I make 8”and 10” blocks?

A-To make the Peaks blocks larger just substitute the measurements called for with the following.
For an 8” block cut all rectangles 2 ½” wide and these lengths: 8 ½”,
6 ½”, 4 ½” and 2 ½”.
For the 10” block cut all rectangles 3” wide and these lengths: 10 ½”, 8”, 5 ½” and 3”.
You will be making less blocks so the yardages should be about the same as those in the pattern.An exception would be if the size of the quilt center (the blocks area) is larger than the one in the pattern.In any case I would purchase a bit more fabric just to be safe.

Q-Cheryl asks: Can you tell me about washing and general care of Foldy Stuff quilts.Can they be washed and cleaned just like other quilts?

A-I launder my Foldy Stuff quilts just like any other quilt.In fact, they launder better than most because I seldom use batting, so I don’t have to worry about that.When I do use batting I make sure there is little quilting needed because I only quilt (by machine) in the ditch where the blocks are joined.

Q-Beverly asks: I have kept your Foldy Stuff Log Cabin pattern in a drawer ever since I purchased it some time ago.I have never started it because I don’t do well with written instructions and I have forgotten what you did on the Simply Quilts program.Is there a video I might purchase?

A:Sorry, there is no video---but, you don’t need one.A lot of us have a hard time following written instructions.Here is what I tell people (and it really works).1. Using your ugliest scraps, try a block.Figure on throwing the whole thing in the wastebasket when you are done.It takes all the pressure off!2. Don’t even try to read the instructions the first time through, just look at the drawings and do exactly what you see.3. Figure on totally screwing up the first few--it’s OK--you’re going to throw them away anyway.4.When it’s starting to “work” try reading the directions and you will find they now make sense.5. Remember, this is all worth it because, once you “get it”, you’ll find that this is the easiest, fastest and most fun you’veever ad quilting.

ANOTHER FOLDY STUFF HINT
The pleated sections of the Foldy Stuff blocks are “ weighty”.Any sizeable area without pleats needs some extra weight added to give a more balanced feel to the finished quilt.This includes borders and those areas where the pleats have been ”dropped out” (examples-centers of placemats, blocks with centers large enough for embellishments, fussy cuts, etc.)

This is easily done--when I cut the border (or piece needing extra weight) I just cut the same piece from muslin.When stitching that piece in the block or quilt, just layer the muslin under the fabric and treat the two layers as one.
OOPS
In the April ‘05 newsletter my answer to a question asked by Gloria contained some numbers and the fraction (one half)) got left out due to a quirk in the system.At this point I do not know if we have the problem solved, so I am going to repeat the question and answer in this letter using the decimal system instead

Q-Gloria Asks: I would like to make larger blocks than given for the mega pattern Peaks design.How would I make 8 and 10 inch blocks?

A: To make the blocks larger just substitute the measurements called for with the following.

For the 8 inch block cut all rectangles 2.5 inches wide and these lengths: 8.5 inches, 6.5 inches, 4.5 inches and 2.5 inches.

For 10 inch block cut all rectangles 3 inches wide and these lengths: 10.5 inches, 8.0 inches, 5.5 inches and 3.0 inches.
You will be making less blocks so the yardages should be about the same as those in the pattern.An exception would be if the size of the quilt center (the blocks area) is larger than the one in the pattern.In any case I would purchase a bit more fabric just to be safe.

RIPPINGIT OUT
My beginning students always ask, “How do I know when to rip out a seam?”I always tell them the following:

Be as accurate as you can while still having fun.Remember, this is your hobby not your job, and the chances of your first quilt hanging in the Smithsonian are slim, so don’t spend time ripping out every seam that’s not a perfect match. If you enjoy your first quilt, you’ll make more of them, and as you do, you’ll get better at it.

Know what is important and pay attention to that.For example, learn to maintain a scant ¼” seam allowance.Careful cutting is important. Learn to adjust your sewing machine to maintain a good tension.Use a small size (70/10) sewing machine needle for piecing, and change it every time you start a new project.Use good quality fabrics and thread.

Pay attention to these things and you’ll be amazed at how easy it all fits together.

Q: Marla asks--I have just finished a pineapple Foldy Stuff quilt.I used a lot of white fabric and it needs to be cleaned.Can I wash it in my home washing machine?
A: I assume it is backed and quilted. Just take it to a laundromat and wash it in one of the large front-load machine in the usual way.This is a very sturdy quilt.

Q: Sandra asks--My 13 year old grandaughter (Abby) has received her first sewing machine. I’d like her to try her hand at quilting.Which Foldy Stuff pattern would you recommend for her first attempt?”
A:Definitely the Log Cabin!Not just because it’s the simplest but because it has the most possibilities for playing with the finished blocks and that is exciting.By the way,The Foldy Stuff makes wonderful scrap quilts and would be so interesting and fun for her to work with.You two are in for some great times--enjoy!!

QUESTION FROM PENNY:“The group I quilt with is making a Foldy Pineapple quilt for a raffle, and so far all is going beautifully.We’re constructing 96 squares to cover the top of a queen size bed (8 by 12 squares) and are now trying to decide how to make the “drop” for the sides and ends of the quilt.We would like to make folded borders to continue the foldy theme, and to maintain consistency in the weight.We are considering vertical folds, but not sure how that would work, or how to shape the edges (scallops, points, etc.)Could you offer some suggestions or advice?Thank you so much.”

Answer:I have a queen size pineapple quilt that I made using foldy stuff and I used a regular fabric (non-foldy) border on it because the quiltwas so heavy.To equalize the weight, I used a lightweight batting in the border.Other foldy stuff quilts are not as heavy as the pineapple and I do use foldy stuff borders on some of them.My favorite is to take a long piece of muslin and transfer some strips across the width.I do this at random at various places, and use long strips of fabrics between the foldy areas.It’s fun, easy and eye catching!Enjoy!!!Donna

CATHY WRITES:My husband’s Aunt (80 yr) gave him an old family quilt, undocumented.It is the Courthouse Steps pattern and looks as if it might have been similar to the foldy-stuff or just made so the strips fit.

It has a slight 3-D quality to it.It is black and red (not scrappy) and has a saw-tooth border.My husband said he wanted to reproduce this quilt as it is quite worn. He was trying to figure out how to get the folds and when he asked me I told him I had some great foldy stuff that could make it easy for him.He studied the pattern, pieced in scrappy reds and blacks and designed a slightly different border.It is a great quilt top.

Our question is:Can we just put a light bat in the border area and let the center of the quilt go without batting?What is the best way to put the bat in just the borders?We plan on just quilting in the ditch and in the block centers, as the Foldy Stuff is beautiful.

My answer:What a wonderful thing to do about a special antique quilt that is badly worn--reproduce it!The quilt sounds beautiful.

I often put a light batting in just the border and none in the quilt itself.Or,if the quilt is not terribly heavy, I just “line” the border with a piece of muslin.To use the muslin I just cut it at the same time I cut the border and use the two layers as if it were one.If I use a batting I prefer not to have the seam turned back on itself.To prevent that bulk, I attach the border to the quilt as usual, then baste the batting in place so that the batting extends one-quarter inch under the quilt center.The quilting will then hold it in place.Enjoy your quilt.

Q:Lena asks
Are the Foldy Stuff patterns in quilt shops in Ohio?
A:Although Holiday Designs (our production company) sells to individual shops, their main business is selling to distributors (there are six) and catalogs.Distributors then resell to their customers.The result of this is that we never know which shops carry the patterns.You can obtain the Foldy Stuff patterns, and any of our products, by going to your quilt shop and having them contact either us or their distributor, or go to our website---donnaposter.com---and order directly from there.The advantage of having your quilt shop get them for you is that you will save the shipping cost.

I need to mention about using your credit card with Pay Pal at the website.Pay Pal is the company transferring money from your credit card account to our account within Pay Pal, and that’s how you get to pay for the order.Well, Pay Pal is not the easiest, and there are a number of screens to go through.Be sure to keep on going until the last screen.Go to the bottom of each screen to see if there are other screens.Folks are having a bit of a problem here.If it doesn’t work out just download an order form, (link at bottom of Home Page) and write out the order, include a check or money order and send it along.

Q: Sandra asks
I received my Foldy Stuff order today which included the Hexagon, Pineapple and Log Cabin designs.Two questions:First, are your yadages based on 45 inch fabric?, and second, what do you suggest about pre-washing the top, backing fabric and muslin
A: So glad you asked about the Foldy Stuff, I love doing it!The yardage
charts are based on a 40 inch width of usable fabric after shrinkage from washing, trimming, etc.Most fabrics are 45 inches wide as purchased but I must also include fabrics that are of a “skimpier” width.
As for pre-washing, here’s how I see it.I will do to all the fabrics used in a project the worst things I think my family will do to the quilt in the next twenty years!So, if it is to be used I will prewash, but if it’s going to hang on a wall I generally don’t.While we are on the subject, most of my quilts are made to be used and even abused!It pleases me to see people enjoying them.I do have a few special ones that were a lot of work and usually costly.I make sure my family knows which ones they are.

G. Headen Asks:
I have been given a big tub of jeans and a good bit of yardage of denim.I heard that denum is difficult to sew like regular fabric due to fraying.Any suggestions for a pattern for this material.I think the Block Party might be too bulky.I don’t want any more rag quilts.Been there, done that.

Answer:
Oh, what fun!! All that fabric!I think the Block Party would be great in denim.You just will not need batting.Also, if the seams are too bulky try pressing them open.Let me know how it works.

Toni Asks:
I’m interested in trying your Block Part pattern with just two colors, reds and whites.Do you think it will turn out OKor will it create an uneven color scheme with too much of one color or the other in one spot.I have seen a scrap quilt done in all greens of the same value and it was really pretty.

Answer:
Gee, I don’t know how that color scheme will work.It would definitely be spotty.However, if it isn’t appealing when finished try some “squirrely” quilting on it to break up the spottiness. Now, all that said, I must tell you that in my many years of teaching quilting, I’v seen some piles of fabric come into class that I thought would turn out to be disastrous---only to have them
turn out to be just a wonderful quilt.This is the fun of quilting--let me know what you decide to do.

There are people who still tear and pull cotton fabrics. I’ll never forget a customer who purchased eleven yards to back a king size quilt, washed it and then meticulously pulled the entire eleven yards back “on grain”.Good grief, what a terrible job!!! She finished the quilt and it was gorgeous.As she used it, the entire backing wrinkled.The fabric was pulling itself back to the original resin set.

My solution is to wash the fabric, dry it in the dryer and assume that the way it comes out of the dryer is the way it wants to be!!I don’t mess around with it after that.

Q-Marsha from Texas asks:
My quilt group recently made a quilt top (Queen size) using the Court House Steps design and tons of scraps.We have 56 blocks arranged in diagonal rows by color.My problem is what to do for the drop because there are so many colors.My thoughts are to either add another row of the same design using smaller blocks, or to just continue adding more blocks to construct the drop.

A:Either of your ideas would work just nicely.Here are more options:
1. Add a first border that would finish to one half the width of the blocks in the design, then add a second row of the full size blocks all made from the Courthouse Steps design.A full block would then fit in each corner.See what that first border would look like if you used the same fabric as the center squares.I think it would tie everything together nicely.

2. I’ve done this and I really like it.Decide how wide you need to cut your border, then cut strips of scraps that length. Sew the strips together to “build” the border.It’s easy and fun.

Remember that when making a Foldy Stuff quilt, you need to add another layer of muslin or lightweight batting under any area that doesn’t have pleats to give it some bulk, that includes borders.

I wrote about a favorite tool of mine, a bobbin ring.In response, Sandra writes, “Have you tried the ‘Handi-Bobs” from Nancy’s Notions?They are terrific!It’s a little case into which the bobbin fits and then you match it with the spool of thread, where it nests very neatly.Now I never have to go looking for matching thread/bobbins--they stay together waiting for action!”

P.S. from Donna:I use mostly cream or medium grey thread on almost all of my quilt piecing.I, like most other stitchers, absolutely detest stopping to wind bobbins, so I wind ten or twelve bobbins of these two spools of thread at once.It really cuts down on the cussing!

Kathy writes:I was the one who started the necktie quilt in your class recently.I did it all by machine!I know you were surprised that I was going to try to keep up with that slippery fabric.But I used lots of pins!!Then I put a black satin border and pieced a binding with more tie fabric.When I finished, my husband suggested to put tie tacs in the velvet centers.I wasn’t sure---but it looks great!

P.S. from Donna:I always suggest that you work with ties by hand so I’m delighted to learn from someone who did it by machine.It sounds gorgeous, especially the tie tacs and unique binding.

SUSAN BETZ WROTE:“I was watching you on Simply Quilts and at the end of the show a viewer asked, “can ties be used in quilting?”You mentioned that the Foldy Stuff method was a wonderful way to use them.My wonderful husband had passed away two years before and I still had his ties.So, for Christmas I made three large squares (Foldy Log Cabin) and had them framed.The ladies that did the framing and customers in the store thought it was the most beautiful idea.Needless to say,there wasn’t a dry eye when these were presented Christmas day to my children.Thank you so much for this spectacular gift that my family will have for generations.”

Answer:Thank you so much for letting me know you usedFoldy Stuff to preserve your memories.Over the years I’ve had several people use my patterns for this purpose and I so appreciate their telling me about it.

DIANE WRITES: I’m having problems with my quilts having wavy borders.I have tried everything that has been suggested to me.I feel sometimes that they are better but not as good as I would like them.Can you help?

My answer:(note - my answer was pretty long but I think it’s worth the space here because it’s a frustrating problem that we all deal with. So here it is)

1. When you apply the borders, spread the quilt top out and take several measurements from top to bottom.Average these numbers and cut the side borders to that average. When you put them on, pin the ends first and make the rest of the quilt fit, easying if you must.Pin every four to six inches.After you sew these both on, press them to the border.

2. This problem, waveyness, also occurs when you quilt the center heavily and the border lightly.The border will be larger per square inch than the center .

3. When applying the binding, lay the quilt out and pin the binding on.Be sure the binding “fits” the quilt, not the border.When hand stitching the binding to the backing of the quilt, you can pull the thread taut, if needed, to keep the border even.

4. A special problem occurs when adding borders to a quilt that has been set “on-point”.The section to be measured is now entirely bias and will stretch.To measure a quilt of this sort, it must be completely laid out and taped to a flat surface.A few hints: Smooth it out along the straight grain (which would be catty-corner on the quilt) --- do not smooth it along the edges as you normally would.After taping it down , measure all sides to make sure it’s been laid out evenly and squarely.I lay mine out on my tile floor so I can square it up with the blocks in the tile design.Then, it can be measured in the same manner described above.

I hope this helps --- a wavy border can then be really frustrating.